A Guide to Make Nesselrode Pudding: The Complete Method
The festive, chilled chestnut-based dessert frequently attributed to the famous nineteenth-century chef Antonin Carême, who conceded that the decadent creation was the work of Chef Mony, cook for the diplomat Nesselrode. It was paired with a warm, alcoholic custard, though many find it sufficient as it is. It makes a wonderful Yuletide focal point.
Prep 15 min
Soak Overnight
Cook 20 min
Freeze 2 hr+
Serves 6
125g currants, or dried grapes or even sultanas
50g fine chopped candied peel, diced small
75ml maraschino, or other sweet alcohol you prefer (as noted later)
1 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise, or alternatively 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
600ml heavy cream
4 yolks
50g superfine sugar
45g almond flakes
125g whole peeled cooked chestnuts, or plain chestnut puree
1 Regarding the Dried Fruits
Transfer the dried fruit and candied peel in a small basin. The historic method called for featured a mix of currants and raisins (although other vine fruit, or even any minced dried fruit of your choice, can be used), in addition to candied citron, the peel of a mild, thick-skinned citrus. Specialty peel is found on the internet, similar to many other candied citrus peels which are far nicer to those tough, oily pieces found in grocery stores.
2 Regarding the Alcohol
Add the chosen spirit: maraschino, a traditional Italian cherry-flavored liqueur, serves as the traditional selection, however alternate versions use orange liqueur, cognac with noyaux, an almond-flavoured spirit derived from apricot stones, or a combination of maraschino and full-bodied rum. Madeira wine, sherry, port wine, etc, are certainly suitable, also. Steep the dried fruit mixture for a few hours, or leave overnight.
3 Steep the Cream
An hour or so ahead of time, slit the vanilla bean lengthwise and employ a sharp knife to remove the vanilla caviar. Transfer these and the bean pod in a small saucepan with the cream, heat over low heat just to a gentle simmer, and then remove from the flame allowing it to infuse. (Should you use extract, stir in using it immediately.)
4 Combine the Caster Sugar and Yolks
Place the yolks within a bowl that can withstand heat by the cooker (freeze the remaining whites for making drinks or pavlovas). Gently heat again the vanilla cream back up to a simmer. Meanwhile, beat the sugar with the egg yolk mixture (if you have a preference for sweeter desserts, you may wish to add more the quantity of caster sugar to 75g).
5 Pour in the Hot Cream
Lift the vanilla pod from within the hot cream, then whisk the hot cream into the bowl with the yolk and sugar mixture. Pour back to the pan, set it on a gentle heat and cook, whisking all the while, till the mix is just thick enough so that a distinct line remains across it on the reverse of a wooden spoon. Put the saucepan into a basin filled with cold water for cooling.
6 Pulse the Chestnuts
At this stage, lightly cook the flaked almonds in a dry frying pan until they become golden. In the case of whole chestnuts, whizz them in a blender, or crush to a crumb in a mortar.
Strain off the soaked fruit, add the liqueur into the chestnut powder and process once more until creamy puree (if necessary, add a small amount of the cooled custard to help loosen). When using pre-made chestnut puree, just stir into it the alcohol.
7 Make the Ice Cream
Spoon the creamy chestnut puree in a big basin, and then gradually whisk in the vanilla custard until fully integrated. Freeze using an ice cream machine until it reaches a quite thick texture. Alternatively, transfer in a robust freezer-proof box, place a cover on and place in the freezer for an hour, then use an electric whisk or a wooden spoon to whisk vigorously. Repeat roughly at thirty-minute intervals till creamy and partially frozen.
8 Incorporate the Fruit and Nuts
Once the base reaches a semi-solid state, gently mix the fruit and toasted almonds through it until evenly dispersed. Line a 1.1-litre pudding basin or baking tin with film wrap and spoon the pudding base into it (you may also use a buttered specialty tin).
Pack solid and fold the clingfilm over the surface to seal.